Mar 26, 2024 © Ulrich Theobald
Xueyi xiupu 雪宧繡譜, also called Wuxian Shenshi xiupu 吳縣沈氏繡譜, is a book on embroidery written by Zhang Jian 張謇 according to oral instructions of Ms Shen Shou 沈壽. It was published in 1919 by the Hanmolin Shuju 翰墨林書局 in Nantong 南通, Jiangsu.
The book consists of eight chapters expounding on eighteen rules for the use of needle and yarn to create beautiful embroideries on silk fabric. The first chapters deal with the preparation of tools and materials (Xiubei 繡備), dealing with the yarn (Xiuyin 繡引) and mastering the needle (Zhenfa 針法).
Figure 1. Image of embroidery frame (xiubeng 繡綳) and table (xiuju 繡具) in the Xueyi xiupu 雪宧繡譜
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The chapter Xiuyao 繡要 "Important issues of embroidery" is the longest, and central part of the book. It describes how to pay attention to the material and motif (shenshi 審勢), select and adapt colours (peise 配色; with a long table Xianse biao 線色表, with main colours, zhengse 正色, and secondary colours, jianse 間色), reaching brillance (qiuguang 求光), rendering spirit (xiaoshen 肖神), handling with wisdom (miaoyong 妙用), and achieve fineness (zhenxing 縝性).
Figure 2. Table listing shades of various colours
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The shorter chapters towards the end of the book are classes of embroidery (Xiupin 繡品), effects of embroidery (Xiude 繡德), rhythms of embroidery (Xiujie 繡節), and a general summary (Xiutong 繡通).
The text can be found in the series Xiyongxuan congshu 喜咏軒叢書.
Sources:
Beijing Dongfang Shoucangjia Xiehui 北京東方收藏家協會, ed. 1996. Shoucangjia da cidian 中華收藏大辭典, 219. Beijing: Beijing Yanshan chubanshe.
Liu Fan 劉凡. 2006. "Qianxi Shen Shou de Xueyi xiupu 淺析沈壽的《雪宧繡譜》." Chengdu Jiaoyu Xueyuan xuebao 成都教育學院學報 2006 (4): 119-120+126.
Lu Defu 陸德富. 2008. "Xueyi xiupu bushuo 《雪宧繡譜》補說." Dushu 讀書 2008 (3): 167.
Sun Meng 孫萌. 2017. "Xiupu yu Xueyi xiupu bijiao yanjiu 《繡譜》與《雪宧繡譜》比較研究." Zhuangshi 裝飾 2017 (4): 128-129.
Sun Shaolin 孫紹林. 2010. "You Xueyi xiupu guankui guji shoucang de piping biaozhun 由《雪宧繡譜》管窺古籍收藏的評價標準." Wenwu jianding yu jianshang 文物鑒定與鑒賞 2010 (8): 114-117.
Wang Yijun 王逸君. 2003. "Chuantong nühong yishu xiandaihua de xianxingzhe: Shen Shou yu ta de Xueyi xiupu 傳統女紅藝術現代化的先行者——沈壽與她的《雪宧繡譜》." Dongnan wenhua 東南文化 2003(12):58-63.
Wang Zhuangmu 王莊穆, ed. 1996. Zhongguo sichou cidian 中國絲綢辭典, 640. Beijing: Zhongguo kexue jishu chubanshe.
Zang Zhijun 臧志軍. 2018. "Zhang Jian he Shen Shou Xueyi xiupu 張謇和沈壽《雪宧繡譜》." Zhijiao tongxun 職教通訊 2018 (3): 4.
Zhang Wei 張偉. 2003. "Bing wei shichuan de Xueyi xiupu 并未失傳的《雪宧繡譜》." Shanghai gongyi meishu 上海工藝美術 2003 (3): 19-20.